Vernadsky

Last weekend, along with a group of 20 other Palmerites, I took a trip aboard the Laurence M. Gould to the Ukranian Station, Vernadsky on Galindez Island. It is in a similar area I visited three weeks ago, through the stunning Lemaire Channel. The main difference this time was that we would be allowed to disembark the Gould for an afternoon of frivolity and adventure with the Ukranian winter crew. The voyage was serene, full of humpback pods frolicking in the setting sun and quiet games with friends in the Gould lounge. At Vernadsky life picked up. The shores of the base are too shallow for the Gould to tie up so we approached the station on two Zodiacs. The small Ukranian crew was waiting for us at the shore. An all men station, Vernadsky is a former Brittish base handed over to the Ukraine in 1996. The contracts the men work are normally a year or longer. The summer brings them many visitors, but now, in the depths of winter, we were a novelty for them. The main reason for our little boondoggle was to bring the new cook. Not only were they happy to have visitors, they were especially happy to have someone to take care of cooking and cleaning.

Upon arrival we were given a tour of their main building, by the IT guy who spoke the best English. The building is two stories and provides sleeping room for up to 24 people (though there are only 12 on station now), a medical area, various offices, and a reverse osmosis plant on the ground floor. On the second floor there is a lounge, library, dining room and kitchen. Here we were presented with a colorful spread of food for lunch. Each of the men made a plate of food, some of which included various smoked fish, mock crab, beet and cabbage salad and toasty bits. They offered a toast with their home made Horilka, which is milk and honey vodka. It was all very tasty. We were able to eat and chat for a few hours, when our responsible Station Manager whisked us away to the Zodiacs and on our way back to Palmer. I was sad to leave after such a brief time, but was given the gift of a fish head by the Vernadsky Doctor, to remember my brief and pleasant stay.





























































I am not quite sure what this sign says, but I think it speaks fairly clearly for itself. If you see the abominable snowman point him out and run. Don't try to tickle the skeleton. Gold taco fish are good and yummy but be sure to follow-up with some water.